I-San (also written as Isaan, Issan or Esarn - amongst other romanisations - and อีสาน in Thai language) is the northeast region of Thailand. It includes 19 provinces and covers approximately one third of the country, mainly on the Khorat Plateau, bordered by the Mekong River to the North and East, and by Cambodia to the South. To the West it is separated from Northern and Central Thailand by the Phetchabun mountain range.

I-San received the name of "craddle of the Thai civilisation". Indeed, I-San has a number of important Bronze Age sites, with cliff paintings, artifacts and early evidence of rice cultivation. Iron and bronze tools, such as found at Ban Chiang, may predate similar tools from Mesopotamia. Several marvellous art objects as well as ceramics out of terra cotta (decorated with red patterns in the shape of characteristic spirals) are numerous vestiges of this era. The region later came under the influence of the Dvaravati culture.

During the twelfth century, it was an important province of the powerful Khmer empire which had its capital in Angkor, and whose architectural marvels still testify to the fabulous creativity of this people (such as the sites of Phimai and Phnom Rung for instance). The ancient Khmers were already masters of perspective, using the peaks of the hills as construction bases for their impressive temples, image of the size and grandeur of this immense empire, with their sandstone towers decorated with subtle relief patterns representing the Gods, the men, and their heroic acts in a naturalist style.

After the Khmer empire began to decline from the 13th century, I-San was dominated by the Lao Lan Xang kingdom. Thereafter the region was increasingly settled by Lao and Thai migrants. Siam held sway from the 17th century, and carried out forced population transfers from Laos to I-San in the 18th and 19th centuries. The Franco-Siamese treaties of 1893 and 1904 made I-San the frontier between Siam and French Indochina. In the 20th century a policy of "Thaification" promoted the incorporation of I-San as an integral part of Thailand and de-emphasised the Lao origins of the population. This policy extended to the use of the name "I-San" itself: the name is derived from that of Isana - a manifestation of Shiva as deity of the northeast - and from the Sanskrit word for northeast. The name therefore reinforces the area's identity as the northeast of Thailand, rather than as a part of the Lao world. Before the central government forcibly introduced the Thai alphabet and language in schools, the people of I-San wrote in the Lao alphabet. Most I-San people still speak the I-San language which is closely related to the Lao language (the Kmher language is also widely employed in the southern part of I-San bordering Cambodia).

Today, despite the undeniable cultural influence of the Angkorian era, the North-East is proud of a culture strongly inspired by the vicinity of Laos (but which nevertheless presents its particular character). This Laotian relationship is obvious in the festivities, cuisine, clothing, and art of the region. Isan food is distinct from Thai and Lao cuisines, but has elements in common with each. The most obvious characteristics are the use of sticky rice that accompanies almost every meal rather than plain rice, as well as fiery chillies. The main indigenous music of I-San is mor lam^[1]. It exists in a number of regional variants, plus modern forms. Another form of folk music, kantrum^[2], is popular with the Khmer minority in the South. The local music and dances are famous for their dynamic and contagious rhythms and are very popular also in the other regions of the country. The local festivals are fun-filled and joyful. Even funerarals generally give rise to swinging concerts organised by the family and the close relatives of the deceased.

I-San is known for producing a large number of Muay Thai boxers: as with Western boxing, Muay Thai (kickboxing) provides a rare opportunity to escape from poverty.

Agriculture is the largest sector of the economy, generating around 22% of the Gross Regional Product (compared to 8.5% for Thailand as a whole). Rice is the main crop (accounting for about 60% of the cultivated land), but farmers are increasingly diversifying into cassava (manioc), sugar cane and other cash crops. Very few farmers still use water buffalo rather than tractors. The main animals raised for food are cattle, pigs, chickens, ducks and fish.

In short, I-San is an authentic region, respectful of its traditions and whose inhabitants work hard to survive. For most of the travellers, I-San is the best part of Thailand, the true soul and the heart of the Lands of Smiles...

With East Asian Road, you will specifically discover the three Khmer provinces of I-San: Surin, Si-Saket and Buriram, through our tours and accommodation services.

Ban Naa Cottages, our original resort is located in Ban Samut, a village which includes around 300 inhabitants. Built in the middle of rice fields, it is situated at 30 kilometers of Surin, main town and capital of this province (and near the border with Cambodia).